If this years Australian Fashion Week had a headline act, it would be Nicol & Ford. Held at Elizabeth House, we'd heard whispers that this collection would be full of optimism — so we skipped up the steps ready to be surprised, and surprised we were.
The collection, titled Feint, was inspired by Adrian Feint, "a brilliant Australian artist and tastemaker whose work has largely remained hidden in private collections and museum basements." The show was, of course, packed with the wonderful community that always surrounds Lil and Katie — designer Niamh Galea and our long-time friend Nyaluak Leth among the stunning lineup. And on the topic of community, Feint was styled by one of our oldest friends, long-time CPC contributor and all-around fashion genius Miguel Urbina Tan — who, as you'll notice, makes a couple of appearances in the gallery above (the actual cutest).
We asked emerging Aotearoa designer Laurence Sabrine to ask Lil and Katie a few questions, read their answers below. Then delve into the captivating images Aidan Ouma-Machio & Rebecca Hong created backstage, above.
What’s the name of the collection, and is there a hidden figure of queer history that inspired it?
Feint is inspired by Adrian Feint (1894–1971), a brilliant Australian artist and tastemaker whose work has largely remained hidden in private collections and museum basements.
Tell us about the first moment that sparked inspiration for the show:
Following the darkness explored across THORN (AFW24) and Parrhesia (AFW25), we felt ready to do something a little lighter. There is so much in the world that feels heavy right now, and we wanted to give ourselves, and our audience, a moment of fantasy and escapism.
How did your creative process evolve from there?
As we spent more time with Feint’s work, the collection began to unfold as a portrait of both his outer and inner worlds. We looked closely at his relationships with patrons, tracing them through his personal ledger, while also responding to the quieter, more coded elements of his practice, the florals, surrealism, and gestures of queerness that sit just beneath the surface. From there, the collection naturally split into these different emotional registers, moving between structure, ornament, and something more intimate.
What was the first piece you made for this collection?
Look 19, a bias gown inspired by the Spider Conch shell (Lambis truncata), a form that appears throughout Feint’s work.
Are there any details in this collection that you spent forever on?
Working with Natasha Walsh on the first six looks. Designing, planning, and working with her to hand-paint those enormous florals took an incredible amount of time and care, but it was of course completely worth it.
Are there any emerging queer designers you want to highlight?
Oliver Parry, who showed this year in The Innovators, is a very talented young designer we had the pleasure of working with when he interned in our studio last year.
Also, while not emerging, we also want to make note of Sydney favourite Niamh Galea, whose eponymous label has such a strong following both locally and internationally. We’re so happy to have Niamh walking in the show this year.
Out of all the hidden figures of queer history you’ve researched, which one has been your favourite, and why?
That’s like asking us to pick a favourite child. There are so many still sitting in our notebooks, we won’t be running out of material any time soon. History is full of queers.
Best and worst part of show week?
Best is having everyone pile into the studio for those final days, it’s chaotic but really special. Worst is packing everything up to bump in to the venue, we’re always convinced we’ve forgotten something critical.
How do you actually feel the week before a show?
A constant, low-level stomach churn, with small bursts of joy as things start to click into place.
And the week after?
Completely exhausted.
Three words to sum up the experience of creating this collection:
Joy, challenge, perseverance.
Photos: Aidan Ouma-Machio
VHS Stills: Rebecca Hong
Interview: Laurence Sabrine
We acknowledge the Gadigal people of the Eora Nation as the traditional owners of the land on which Australian Fashion Week takes place.
