Aotearoa consistently turns out a dazzling array of design talent, and none more astounding than the next gen of designers who harnessed their creativity into the garments above.
Our friend Abigail Dell'Avo went backstage at the Future of Fashion show at New Zealand Fashion Week last month, and after clocking the jaw-dropping designs coming down that runway, we knew we had to sit down with a couple of the talented designers behind the labels and get into what it actually takes to start a fashion brand, what inspires them and the one person they would dress if they could (Young Thug, Caroline Polachek and Jacinda Ardern all get a mention).
For wannabe designers, you'll find some gems of wisdom below. Like Laurence Sabrine keeping it 100 with "making and creating is only like 15% of the bigger picture," and Heather Brennan Evans getting serious about circularity: "[This year] I have really delved into using almost exclusively recycled and second hand clothes." Then there's Winnie of Winnie Catherine, who has a plan for ensuring all her garments are practical and “fit for purpose” where she gets friends to test-wear garments for months before they're released.
Scroll down to meet Laurence, Heather and Winnie, check out their looks above, and get familiar with the other Future of Fashion brands who showed out too — Anthurium, iTi Clothes, NIQ Atelier, Rhian and Zoe Langley.
Heather Brennan Evans
Name: Heather
Star sign: a very Virgo, Virgo 🙈
Tell us about your label and why you started it:
Since I learnt how to sew in high school, I started making clothes and just never stopped.
I think at the root of it, it's a love and obsession for creating and experimenting, and working with my hands.
I never explicitly decided to start a label, but after having some of my pieces sold through stockists overseas, it naturally pushed me to think about my output and make it more of a brand. I don't have any financial backing, so it's truly a labour of love.
Walk us through your design process:
It almost always starts with sourcing my materials. I love using whatever I can find second hand. This year especially I have really delved into using almost exclusively recycled and second hand clothes, so I start by sourcing those from op shops or the Resource Centres in Auckland.
Play and experimentation are a major part of my design process, so I try different materials together and see what colours/textures feel right.
I love embellishing, dying and painting fabrics. A lot of the time, my designs don't feel complete until I've done some kind of hand finishing. I like things that really look handmade.
What’s the most random material or object you’ve ever tried to turn into fashion?
I feel like most of the materials I work with are quite random 😆 I try not to buy new so whatever I chance upon is what I use, be it old clothes from opshops, paint, beads etc.
What’s one thing you wish someone had told you before you started a fashion label?
Things can take a lot longer than you might anticipate, but trust the process, even when it's not going how you expect it to.
Is there a piece you’ve made that you’re disproportionately proud of?
A recent piece would be the Bunny Paint Skirt that was in the opening NZFW show and the Future of Fashion show.
It's made from my friend Rachael's old jeans, paint from my boyfriend, the bunny applique I traced from my favourite movie The Wicker Man and vintage NZ patches I sourced from Facebook marketplace. To me this is what making clothing is about, a reflection of the world around you and giving everyday things attention to give them soul and meaning.
What’s on high rotation in the studio playlist right now?
Prophetic Justice Ministry's new album Key to World Peace.
If you could dress one person (dead, alive, or fictional) in your designs, who and why?
Young Thug, cos he gets it👑
Laurence Sabrine
Name: Laurence Sabrine
Age: 29
Star sign: Gemini sun (leo rising)
Tell us about your label and why you started it:
the label started as a uni project to thread parts of myself that didn’t feel connected. being filipino and being queer felt like two separate worlds so that’s the constant question i’m trying to answer for myself. The label is basically a love letter to the communities i’m part of.
You use lots of layering and wrapping techniques in your designs, can you tell us about this and how you develop pieces:
It depends on the piece honestly but it’s all about intuition for me. Sometimes I start with a shape, either something structural (square or rectangular) or I’ll use a piece of scrap fabric which has pieces cut out of it so it gives me something interesting to start with. Other times it’s inspired by a pre-existing garment that I can use as a vessel to make through (like the slip skirt inspired piece on the runway!)
Do you feel like there are positives to being based in Te Whanganui-a-Tara, or any drawbacks?
One positives for me is the community that I have in pōneke, they inspire me a lot. lots of designers, photographers and artists who challenge me to expand my way of thinking when it comes to fashion. One drawback would be the fact that so much happens in auckland that I feel like i sometimes miss out on being a part of things!
What's one thing you wish someone had told you before you started a fashion label?
That the making and creating is only like 15% of the bigger picture. there’s definitely more admin and paperwork than i ever anticipated.
What's on high rotation in the studio playlist right now?
The music situation changes everyday but I’ve been listening to fashion neurosis with Bella Freud a lot, specifically the episodes with Ib Kamara, Ocean Vuong and Juergen Teller.
If you could dress one person (dead, alive, or fictional) in your designs, who and why?
Caroline Polachek! i just love the way her mind works and working on absolutely anything with her would be heavenly.
Winnie Catherine
Name: Winnie Solomon
Age: 25
Star sign:
Cancer
Tell us about your label and why you started it:
I started Winnie Catherine because I wanted to create clothing for the women I was seeing around me – particularly my friends who were graduating university and stepping into their first professional roles. I felt there was an opportunity in the workwear category that reflected that sense of ambition and individuality, so I designed pieces that felt polished and tailored, while still allowing women to express their personality. For me, clothing has the ability to change how a woman feels when she puts it on, and I wanted to create garments that made women feel empowered and prepared for whatever their day may bring.
What’s one thing you wish someone had told you before you started a fashion label?
Don't expect it to be easy.
Given so much of Aotearoa’s fashion industry is centered in Tāmaki Makaurau, what are the pros and cons of being based down in Te Whanganui-a-Tara?
Pros: Firstly, it's my birth place. My community and close network are here, which is really important when it comes to growing a business. Secondly, The breathing space. Being slightly disconnected from the commercial realities of Tāmaki Makaurau means I can push boundaries – Pōneke is a playground for the weird and wonderful, and I love that I can grow the label here on my own terms.
Cons: the travel costs involved. Whether that's for shipping garments across the motu (country) week to week or for myself to be there for business.
Any local spots (op shops, fabric stores, cafes) you’d consider part of your creative process?
Prefab Cafe. I love seeing the women of Wellington filter through, getting their coffees and catching up with friends or clients. They are only open Monday to Friday, so most of the time their customers are coming in from work – providing me with good market research!
You release pieces when they feel ready rather than on a seasonal schedule. What does “ready” actually look/feel like to you?
First and foremost, I need to know that the pieces I am working on are fit for purpose for the Winnie Catherine woman. Earlier this year, I gave a sample blouse to a friend up in Auckland who is a lawyer to wear-test for a few months – after receiving ample feedback, I can go ahead with its release. Fun fact: the green blouse from the show was the style she was testing. The Holly Kate Blouse is ready to launch near the end of September! Secondly, as Winnie Catherine is predominately a made-to-order label, it's not feasible to be releasing 20 pieces each 'season'. Our production model focuses on craftsmanship, and quality over quantity when it comes to the releasing of garments.
If you could dress one person (dead, alive, or fictional) in your designs, who and why?
One person is so tough! It'd be incredibly meaningful to me to see Winnie Catherine being worn by women who represent the values of the brand. Women who are leaders, who are making an impact, and building meaningful lives. Someone like Jacinda Ardern or Ilona Maher.
Photos: Abigail Dell’Avo
Features Editor: Chloe Hill
